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Emily Harrington, Climber

Emily Harrington on El Capitan
Photo: Jon Glassberg (Cinematography), CC BY 3.0

El Capitan, Yosemite National Park, California, USA
Photo: Mike Murphy, CC BY-SA 3.0
Why current?
2020-11-12
On November 4, Emily Harrington became the fourth woman to take less than 24 hours to free-climb El Capitan, the iconic rock formation in Yosemite National Park. She was the first woman (the fourth person) to use the Golden Gate route to scale the 3000-ft (914-meter) cliff in less than a day.
Harrington spent a grueling 21 hours, 13 minutes, 51 seconds on El Capitan, one of the most difficult free-climb challenges in the world. She had completed the ascent before, but this was the first time she made it in less than 24 hours. To reach the summit so quickly, she had to continuously weigh the importance of safety with the risks of speed. As a free-climber, she used only her hands and feet to grab onto the rock and pull herself up. Ropes and other gear were at the ready, but only as protective measures in case of a fall.
Several hours of the climb took place in the dark; Harrington began her ascent at 1:30 am and reached the top at 10:30 pm. During the first part of the climb, she was accompanied by her friend, the famed free-climber, Alexander Honnold. Her fiancé, Adrian Ballinger, joined her toward the end of the climb. At one point, Harrington’s grip slipped and her head slammed against the rock. Even though the injury wasn’t serious, Harrington describes how the fall had rattled her and that she had even considered stopping. Instead, she regrouped and moved forward, until she reached her ultimate goal and set a new record in climbing.
“Impossible dreams challenge us to rise above who we are now to see if we can become better versions of ourselves.”
-Emily Harrington
More about Emily Harrington
- Born in Boulder, Colorado, on August 17, 1986.
- Began climbing when she was 10 years old.
- From an early age, Harrington was driven by a competitive spirit and a determination to face her fears. She started out on the climbing-walls in her local gym. Eventually she joined a climbing team and went on to become a professional climber.
- Harrington is known for her multifaceted athleticism. She doesn’t just climb, but also excels at mountaineering, skiing, and windsurfing. She has climbed to the top of Mt. Everest and has attempted free-climbs in challenging locations all over the world, including Nepal, Morocco, and Peru.
- Currently lives in Squaw Valley, California, where she trains for upcoming climbs and enjoys lots of different mountain sports.
- Has a dog named Kat.
- Harrington has been asked many times about how she conquers the fear of climbing to such heights, in such challenging settings, under the toughest of conditions. She has talked about how, instead of trying to conquer the fear and make it go away, she tries to use it as an engine that pushes her forward. In an interview with Brian List at Moja Gear, she said that to get to her limit and then move beyond her limit, she embraces, rather than fights, discomfort, pain, and fear. These feelings do not block the process; they are part of the process. Harrington said in the interview, “To me, that process is fun.”
- Watch the following video, to hear more about how Harrington uses fear to find success and joy in life.
Sources: Diaz, Jaclyn, opb.org, “Emily Harrington is first woman to free-climb El Capitan’s Golden Gate route in 1 day,” https://www.opb.org/article/2020/11/12/emily-harrington-free-climb-el-capitan-golden-gate-route/, November 12, 2020; Johnson, Lauren M., edition.cnn.com, “Emily Harrington becomes the fourth woman to free climb El Capitan in under 24 hours,” https://edition.cnn.com/2020/11/08/us/emily-harrington-first-woman-to-free-climb-el-capitan-trnd/index.html; November 10, 2020; Wikipedia, “Emily Harrington,” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emily_Harrington; List,Brian, Moja Gear, “An Interview with Emily Harrington,” https://mojagear.com/an-interview-with-emily-harrington/.